Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Upper Vallecito


After paddling vallecito for the last 5 years, the question of what lies upstream is one that frequently pops up. 20+ years ago a crew came in from hunchback pass, though little is known of their trip. More recently Dana Kopf and most likely other groups have started pushing up a little higher from the normal put in. Our curiosity led to some speculation and planning, but like most ambitious ideas hatched up over takeout beers, it remained idle campfire talk for 5 years.

Enter 2017. After paddling 200+ days in 2016, I made a conscious decision to paddle less often but with a greater focus on exploration. First were some January trips to AZ, then Zion, Escalante, Jarbidge Bruneau, muddy chute, and high water black boxes. Having missed the Brazos and Los Pinos, the upper Valle was the last pre-season goal that I still had a chance of completing. Re-motivated after looking at Mike Curiak's recent photos and beta on prime water levels, it seemed like this was the last chance for the year before the snow gave out.
Typical Upper V scenery
On June 24, I started the 14 mile hike upstream from the campground. The plan was to meet up with Dan Thurber and Jeff Creamer, who were attempting the first known Upper A/Vallecito link up via a traverse of the Grenadier Range. I eventually reached our prearranged meeting point; the confluence of sunlight and vallecito creeks. Not seeing any sign of the crew and with 2 hours left before sunset, I grabbed my packraft and started heading further upstream.

Mountain lion in the trail!
Above sunlight creek, the character seems to change significantly. Less wide open valley and more gorge. Broad meadows are replaced by thicker vegetation. 140 fpm ratchets up a notch.  Jeff and Dan started paddling at Rock creek, and reported several V gorges that didn't seem good to go with a brief scout. I spent more time scouting the gorge just above sunlight creek, which would be runnable with a likely portage around the entrance falls. If a crew were to come in with more time, a proper scout and better safety would lead to some great boating. But in the fading evening light and with our 2 teams still separated, we both settled for a combination of paddling and portaging.

Gorge above Sunlight creek

Gorge above Sunlight creek

Sunday we put on with roughly 400 cfs (trough was 360, peak was 435 for the day). Flows early on were low but enough to get down the river. We took a good look at the steep boulder garden rapid at Roell creek, but weren't up for a class V breakfast. Some really fun III-IV boogy helped us make fast miles.
Roell Creek Rapid

Roell Creek Rapid
Roell run out 
Roell run out


I can't count how many smiles and happy war cries were shared over the course of the day. Easily the best packrafting trip I have done.


Great rapid! Near Johnson creek I think?


Log jam rapid 


2nd bridge rapid

2nd bridge rapid

2nd bridge rapid

The highlight for me was the gorge between bridges 1 and 2. I call it the cloud 9 gorge, and if you paddle through here you will understand why. One of the most incredible spots on the entire creek, with several stout must-run rapids, tight walls, and a waterfall gushing in midway through. Similar to the paddle bitch/no way out eddy downstream.
Entry rapid to cloud 9 gorge

Limbo rapid, cloud 9 gorge. (Left line is easier than right)

Exit rapid, cloud 9 gorge
All told, we ran the entire creek from sunlight to just above entrance falls with 1 portage at Roell, portaged the classic gorge, and still got out with several hours of light to spare. A few days later I came back with a creeker and paddled the classic gorge, and continued on to the lake to complete a personal first descent of the creek from above sunlight down. Spoiler alert: the campground to lake is less interesting (and less channelized) than finish line to campground.
1st bridge rapid
Getting pitted near the takeout
With a 14+ mile hike in, this will probably never become a mainstream run. But for the paddler that is willing to earn it, you will be rewarded with great scenery, quality rapids, and a sense of accomplishment for exploring somewhere new with your buddies. We certainly were.

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